The choices available in the selection of a snowboard are nearly as vast as those in Alpine ski equipment. There are about 20 different brands on the market with most offering at least a half-dozen models.
Snowboards actually share more common elements with Alpine skis than most people realize. Modern snowboards have continuous steel edges, polyethylene bases and laminated wood cores, as do most skis. Consideration of flex patterns, side-cut depth, and camber are all relevant concepts for snowboards. With all these similarities it should come as no surprise that modern snowboards can "carve" a turn as well, sometimes better, than an Alpine ski.
The production facilities required to manufacture snowboards are very similar to Alpine skis and equally sophisticated and expensive to construct. While there are over 30 brands of boards there are only about 10 significant manufacturers world-wide. Most very small brands, and at least one major brand, contract with outsiders for manufacturing.
This is not in and of itself undesirable but it does mean that some smaller brands could be nothing more than a poorly capitalized "marketing company" which is placing fancy graphics on a generic board. It is doubtful that some of these smaller brands will still be around in a couple of years, after the current "industry consolidation" is completed. This should be a major consideration for buyers who are concerned about warranty claims, etc. (If you are a heavy or aggressive skier or rider who has delaminated or broken skis or boards in the past, this is an important consideration. If in doubt, go with an established brand!)
Within the past several years this board design has emerged as the most common type sold. It is a great all-around board which can be used for tricks, powder snow, and carving. Like any "all-around" product, while it can be used for any of these purposes, Free Ride boards typically will not excel at any one of these. This is to say, that they will not be the "very best" board in the half-pipe, or deep powder. But if you are a typical rider with varied riding tastes and interests in a given day, Free Ride designs are probably for you. (I prefer this design for my own use)
While Free Ride boards initially look like "Free Style" boards, in that they have a identical noses and tails, that's where the similarity ends. Today's Free Ride boards are termed "Directional Designs" in the industry. The highlights of their features are:
These have an even (symmetrical) flex pattern and a smaller amount of side-cut than the Free Rides. In general they are easy to identify from their symmetrical "Twin Tip" designs. The Twin design means that the board can be ridden equally well backwards ("switch") as forward. This type of board excels at all types of tricks. Some models may also come in extra wide designs to eliminate "boot drag" for people with larger boot sizes. (This was once the most popular design but in the past year has been displaced by the directionalized "Free Ride" designs)
These boards have a centered binding insert pattern. Some models have relatively low "tip/tail heights" which can create problems in deeper powder snow.
Alpine (less than 5% of market)
At the other end of continuum are the Alpine carving (racing) boards. These are designed for speed. They are easy to spot, as most have a flat tail, like a ski, and a lower shovel than Freestyle models. These boards tend to be stiff with very pronounced side-cuts and a much more narrow overall shape. When placed on edge they can "carve" phenomenal tracks. (Those extremely thin ruts you see are frequently left by Alpine snowboards).
My good friend Ryan Miller - Perhaps a member of the 2002 US Olympic Snowboard (racing) Team
Almost all Alpine boards have a square (blunt) tail which lacks the "turned-up" design of "Free Style" and "Free Ride" designs. Many Alpine designs have also become much narrower. (Snowboard racing officials actually set a minimum width for race boards to keep them from becoming to narrow) These design characteristics can make them more difficult to ride "switch" (backwards), as the blunt tail can have a tendency to dig into moguls. This might be of concern to some snowboard (ski) patrollers who need to be able to ride "switch stance" in steep moguls while handling a toboggan.
What Length Board Should I Ride?
The optimal board length is dependent upon the style of riding (freestyle, free-ride, racing) that you plan to do. In general the optimal board length should be related to the rider's weight. This is caused by the fact that to make the board "flex" in traditional turns or tricks you will need to bend the board beneath you. If the board is to stiff for your weight you will never be able to adequately flex it.
Most manufacturers will prescribe a "rider weight range" for
each model of board. This can normally be found on a removable label on
the bottom of the board.
I am 155 lbs soaking wet, and stand 5'8". I find that free-style
and free-ride boards in the 155-160cm range seem to work best for me. I
can swing them rapidly yet they have enough flotation for runs in deep
powder. I have heard of people using the "rule-of-thumb" that a board should
be long enough to reach your chin, nose or assorted other "anatomical parts."
Frankly, I think these are crude guides and I always recommend that you
go with a manufacturer's specific suggestions, which are printed on the
board label.
Boot Size & Board Selection
A unique problem confronting some riders with boot size 10+ (men's) involves "Boot Drag." This is the situation which occurs when the stance angle of the boots and their size combine so that both the toe and heel of the boot extend farl over the edges of the board. This can be an undesirable situation as when the board is tilted on edge the boot will begin to dig into the snow disrupting the operation of the board's edge. Sudden instability and falls can be a consequence of this situation.
A rider with large feet has only two options to combat this:
(See: "Boot Size vs. Snowboard Size")
- Increase their stance angle so that the longitudinal axis of the boot is brought somewhat closer to that of the board.
- Purchase a "Wide Board." Several manufacturers, most notably "K-2," and "Burton" offer wider boards for riders with big feet.
Transworld Snowboarding has an excellent Buyers Guide online.
There is a great site with information about how to "bevel" your board's edges: Tognar Toolworks.
Deal$
I have had excellent luck finding new boards/bindings/boots on e-bay. My best experiences have been with Snow & Water Sports, out of Fort Worth, TX.
There is another source which offers over-stock and last year's models from major companies (except Burton) at decent prices ; The House
If your looking for information on the history of snowboarding (no, Jake Burton didn't invent the sport), try this site.
Photos: Courtesy of TransWorld Publications
Disclaimer: The opinions expressed herein are purely my own. They are based upon my personal experience (who is this "Dave dude") and publicly available materials.
Copyright © 1993 - 2001 David E. Schutz